Figure Edition Value Guide
If you are comparing figure edition value guide, the useful questions are narrower than most guides admit: what it is made of, how it is finished, how big it actually is, and how many exist.
What Grading Measures
Grading scores condition: surface, joints, paint integrity, completeness of carton and certificate, and any repair. A piece graded on these axes is easier to value than one described as simply mint, because mint means different things to different sellers and graders use the same checklist.
Grade vs Edition vs Value
Edition size sets the floor; grade sets the multiple; value is what a buyer pays today. A small edition in poor grade can be worth less than a large edition in pristine condition with full packaging, so condition and completeness are not afterthoughts.
Why the Number Is the Asset
The individual number is what makes your piece one of a known few rather than one of many. Keep the certificate with the base in a single dated photograph, and store the carton. Provenance built on day one is worth little while you own the piece and a great deal on the day you do not.
Certificate Alone Proves Nothing
A convincing paint job can sit on a wrong-shaped base, and a certificate with a blank number field proves nothing. Verify the base sits dead flat with no rocking, the material mix is genuine, and any powered feature works before trusting the paper, because the paper is the easiest part to fake.
Measurements Catch a Recast
An expected 32 cm or 34 cm piece that measures 36 cm is a different mould. Height is hard to fake without a new tool, and weight helps too: a recast that feels light for its volume is usually hollow where it should be solid. Combine the two and most recasts fail the field test in under a minute.
If the specification is vague, treat that as the answer. Good manufacturers publish the detail because collectors ask for it.