Figure Photo Lighting Guide
A practical breakdown of figure photo lighting guide, aimed at new collectors. No marketing language — just the specification, the construction and the display consequences.
Light Damage Is Cumulative
UV breaks polymer chains in paint binders and clear coats; the damage shows first as lost gloss, then as yellowing, and it is irreversible. This is why a piece can look perfect for two years and dull by year four without anything ever touching it — the light was doing the work the whole time.
Source Comparison
| Source | UV | Heat | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Direct sun | High | +10 °C | Avoid |
| Halogen 50 W | Yes | +10–15 °C | Avoid |
| Warm LED 2700 K | <0.1% | Very low | Best |
Shelf Length vs Volume
Length decides count; depth and headroom decide comfort. A deep shelf with low clearance still crowds a 34 cm piece. Check all three before buying, not just how many will line up along the front, because the head needs air above it.
Lux-Hours, the Budget Nobody Tracks
Museums manage light as a dose: illuminance multiplied by hours. A shelf at 200 lux for eight hours a day is about 584,000 lux-hours a year. Halving daily on-time is as effective as halving brightness, and cheaper, because a display shelf does not need to outshine the room it stands in.
Separate Scales and Rooms
If you own quarter and sixth scale, display them apart so each reads correctly. Mixed scale at one eye level is the most common first-year mistake, and it flattens both lines so neither looks like the size it actually is.
The short version: material and edition size set the ceiling, finish sets the day-to-day impression, and display decides how much of that you actually see.